An integral part of our brand identity and culture, NextHome wouldn’t be the same without our beloved mascot Luke.
In honor of his birthday, we have declared June 15th our company’s annual day of community outreach – Luke Day. This year, due to COVID-19, we are pushing the day out to July 15th.
On this day, NextHomies across the country step away from their business and come together to serve their local communities and the animals that thrive there.
By organizing pet adoption events, hosting vaccine clinics for local veterinary centers, or raising donations for our national charity partner, Canine Companions for Independence, our franchise network joins forces to make a difference on this special day.
Luke Day is about collaboration and service, bringing the local community together to support a great cause.
If you want to give to my Canine Companions fundraiser, please click on this link. Every dollar counts!
You’ve found it: a beautiful, rambling old farmhouse, with wide-plank wood floors, original windows, maybe a big barn. And, out back, a few trees and a shady, rolling lawn—the perfect place to hang a hammock, just as soon as you tackle your own Fixer-Upper-style renovation. But be warned before you start: What you love most about your farmhouse might cause you the most headaches. Here’s what to know before embarking on a farmhouse renovation (and what to leave as-is).
1. Those wood floors might need to replaced.
The good news is, good-quality wood floors can withstand a lot of refinishing—the maximum is about 10, according to Denver-based MacDonalds Hardwoods—which takes more time but is less expensive than total replacement. But if the original wood floors in your farmhouse are getting close to that number, or are just in bad shape (MacDonalds Hardwoods says to look for warping, loose boards, termite damage, or under-floor damage), you may be looking at total-floor replacement while you’re living there. (Otherwise, consult What to Know About the 4 Most Popular Wood Floor Finishes for a few options.)
2. There may be hidden dangers.
Keep in mind that an old farmhouse (or any house built before 1978) may have lead paint on the walls—or asbestos. Lead paint is particularly a problem in window wells, where the paint can flake off or pulverize when the windows open and close. Check with the local authorities for the best, safest way to proceed, and be sure to work with contractors trained to handle toxic substances.
3. You could spend a small fortune upgrading the basics.
The rule of thumb with any remodeling project is to remember that it will cost more than you think—but this is especially the case with old houses like farmhouses. Once you start, you’re sure to discover things that need replacing: old electrical systems (knob-and-tube wiring will need to be brought up to code), water pipes, and the HVAC system. If you don’t have room for a full-blown HVAC system or want to minimize the disturbance to the bones of the house, consider an efficient mini-duct HVAC system, with much smaller tubing and ducts that can be fitted easily and unobtrusively into the walls or floors.
4. The charming old windows might be drafty.
Those beautiful old windows might mean a long, chilly winter, since they’re likely single- (not double) paned. And replacing them can be costly: up to $800 or $1000 just for the window, according to Angie’s List. But some experts say slightly draftier windows are a small price to pay for having original windows: “Never, never, never throw away old windows,” Ipswich, Massachusetts-based architect Matthew Cummings told Forbes. Newer windows don’t last as long and aren’t built as sustainably, he says. Consider having old windows repaired by an expert, not replaced.
5. Soapstone counters are not quite zero-maintenance.
Soapstone is a popular choice for farmhouse-style interiors, and it’s generally a rugged one: It’s heat-resistant, stain-proof, and isn’t affected by acidic materials. But be forewarned that it can nick and scratch easily (cutting boards are important). Four years in, Fan reports, her soapstone counters have worn unevenly and dent from even dropping a can. (Read her full run-down in Soapstone Counters: Are They Worth It?) And soapstone does require spa treatments—in the form of mineral-oil massages—if a dark, almost black look is what you’re going for. Read more in Remodeling 101: Soapstone Countertops.
6. That clawfoot tub may have to go.
You might be picturing a vintage, cast-iron bathtub in your farmhouse. But sloping floors aren’t a good match for freestanding baths, and the floors might not be able to support the weight of the bath filled with water (and a human). For more, see 10 Things Nobody Tells You About Clawfoot Bathtubs.
7. Last but not least, get an inspection.
Consult an expert (or two): An official inspector can tell you the nitty-gritty of your house—before you start tearing down walls.
– 2 Pallets
– Outdoor Paint
– Durable Nylon Rope (make sure it’s rated to support a large amount of weight!)
– Outdoor Fabric + Patio Cushions (optional)
To make this hanging pallet swing we started with two shipping pallets
The first we cut in half use as our back support
Use an electric sander or some sand paper to give your pallets a good sand, try to get off as much dirt and wood grime as possible
Once they’re both completely sanded, front and back, wipe them off well to get rid of all dust
Before we get painting we’re laying down a drop cloth
To paint the pallet we’re using an outdoor wood paint in a deep navy tone
Using the combo of a roller for large flat areas and paint brush for tighter spots, we painted the entire pallet
Make sure once it’s dry you do a second coat! This keeps your wood protected and the color looks much more vivid.
Once both pieces were painted and dry line up your half piece behind the full pallet
Using some wood screws and a drill, drill into the vertical boards of the short piece and into the long back piece of the large pallet. This will hold it together pretty well but we’re also adding some rope for extra support
For our rope we’re using this white nylon rope, make sure you pick a rope that is durable and can hold up to a large amount of weight
We don’t want to put our rope solely through the thin boards so for extra support we’re having it go through the top and out the side. Use a drill bit the size of your rope and drill two holes
For the other side of the rope, we’re also going in through the top and out the middle stronger board.
After your holes are drilled lace your rope in through the side hole and then out through the top rope. Tie the rope tightly in a knot
For the other end, measure out how much you’ll need. To cut the rope, tie a piece of tape tightly where to want to make the cut. Cut the rope in half through the tape. Use a lighter to slightly burn the ends of the rope together. Now you’re good to finish lacing the rope through the other holes and tie it tightly in a knot
Our back rest is now super secure, make sure to repeat this on the other side as well!
For our main ropes we’ll be using to hang the swing, we’re adding two holes similar to the ones we just made. Start by drilling a hole down through the top board and then one out through the back board.
Thread your rope down through the top and out the back. Add a knot and repeat on the other side.
We drilled four sets of these holes on each corner but we’ve only knotted in the backs of each side. We’ll tie up the front two holes once we get to our tree
For our swing cushion we’re combining these two old patio cushions we had. We created one large slip cover out of this outdoor flamingo pattern fabric. We put the two cushions inside to create one large pallet sized mattress
To hang the swing, set it on something about the height you’d like it to sit so you don’t have to hold it up for the entire hanging process.
Make sure you choose a tree with a VERY secure branch because pallets are heavy!
Use a ladder to swing your first rope over the branch
Loop the rope around the branch once. To add the knot, wrap the loose rope around the tight rope twice. Bring the end of the rope through the top and out the bottom
Once on the ground, lace the untied ends of your ropes through the holes the same way we did the first side. Make sure your final knots are tight!
All of the rope lacing and knot tying is pretty hard to explain through text so make sure to watch the video below for full details!